entering Alpine Racing - gear questions

I've been a member of our high school Alpine Racing team for a couple of years, though I missed most of the first due to injury. This last year however, I was able to compete the whole year, and I got really steeped into the phenomena, perhaps even science? of carving, executing transitions at gates, being able to hold your edge without sliding, and going into a carve without sliding at high speeds. However, I went the whole year using a "typical" snowboard (Ride Agenda 162, if curious), and in the latter half of the year, I started to realize the serious limitations of using a normal board while trying to execute the already difficult techniques of alpine racing.

I want to use an Alpine snowboard for next season, but there's so much information to sort through -* what would work better for our high school setups? GS design? SG design? (we run both kinds of courses, but not SL). *What, specifically, are the more technical specs important for good edge control and the ability to go into a clean carve without having to fight against your built-up speed and momentum? (my biggest problem in the past was having a very difficult time getting into both toe and heel-edge clean carves after gaining a lot of forward momentum and speed) *Where can I go to find a good deal and get good performance at a fair price, because frankly, $1000+ for board, boots, bindings is pushing it big time. *Found a couple sites that sell these boards, any opinions or feedback? coiler.com, donek.com

Thanks for your help in this confusing situation.

Hello Darkforged, welcome to the forum I hope you will like it here.

The person that could answer this most professionally is Perry, I hope he will see this and be kind enough to react and advice you

I personally have never raced/competed before. There are some basic things going on here. Effective edge, turning radius, bindings, boots, binding stance and placement. After that are some more subtle things like board flex, dampening, width of the deck for heel to toe(and vise a versus) quickness. Edge tuning is very important, especially for those that may have all of the above dialed. I feel bindings (if you are not using hard boots) may be one of the most under rated parts of the overall equation. Be carefull with hard boots. The systems in the early mid 90's had a reputation for being unforgiving. My experience was with the front foot part. On a wipeout (sticking deck nose into the snow and your body going forward) ankles were said to be broken. I had some very bad bruising until I only rigidly set in the back foot letting the front foot have more movement fore and aft. The newer systems may be different.

I don't detune the front leading edge of the deck. All professional tuners that I know of do. The reason I don't detune is in the softer snow some decks will grab anyway into a very tight unexpected turn and slip on the bullet proof ice. At least my deck will not slip out faster on the nasty ice. Beveling (I use a beveling tool) and polishing (I do this with multi graded diamond stones) edges count too.

I'm sure your coach has gone over the many turning methods. You will be surprised how some very competent and extremely competitive riders don't understand this. I try to learn every method I can and evaluate them for specific applications.

American Association of Snowboard Instructors (AASI) has numerous publications that have helped me hugely in the past. http://aasi.org/01/Education/ Instructor_Publications.asp I found these pockect and bigger sized books to be invaluble, and an incredable bargain in the past. Going into the sample lesson section and trying it was very effective.

Burton at minimum, seems to have a relatively huge line of carving decks. You may need to find a very competent sales person (they will probably want full retail for the latest/greatest). The Burton website last year looked like it had an excelent section to find the best deck possible for a certain application. I doubt you are going to find current year front line decks for cheap. PRO form may work better for you. This is usually done through a shop or the snowboard rep. Your coach may be able to help on this. Seems the better riders don't pay for decks. There will probably be strings attached.

Post edited by: PerryRObray, at: 2008/08/15 23:04

Post edited by: PerryRObray, at: 2008/08/18 19:52

I can't wait for darkforged to check back in here. I KNEW you'd give the most detailed advice available, Perry I hope darkforged will log in soon and read it

Sorry but i would never spend a thousand on a setup(maybe a snowboard) but for top of the line race gear thats about the jist of it. but if you need something to cure your lead foot nidecker is your poison. they have a line if racing boards that are nothing short of amazing. if i remember correctly agneda's have 2000 iso bases high end freestyle boards run 4000 iso on average and nidecker s and gs boards run 8000 and higher. They are also swiss made and made to last you for days. if you are as serious as you say and you test one of these boards out and bite the bullet. you wont be disappointed. you'll be giving to this your son and you dont even have one yet.

I was just looking at the Nidecker website. The specs on the ultralight look to be wrong. Apparently 132 kg is about 291 lbs. This is the stated minimum wieght of a rider for any of the ultralights.
I'd think that a longer effective edge may hold better on icier (seems slalom courses have harder snow)and higher speed cruising. Nidecker was definitely biased towards huge effective edge in the 90's at minimum, I don't see that as much now.
The proto and legend are exceptions and may be worth looking into. These look to be very high speed all around the huge mountain decks.

If you are serious about Nidecker you may want to email (? or) them about clarifications on what appear to be numerous technical mistakes on specs.

I also love speed & carving. for this equipment I frequent http://www.bomberonline.com/
One of the gals that works there was invited to compete in the Olympics. You'll need to spend a little time learning there site. They have many tech articles and you can ask the pros a question. Hope the site helps!

Interesting website (http://www.bomberonline.com/). I went back to the Nidecker site and noticed that there is an arrow pointing to the right at the top right area that scrolls to the slalom decks. Seem to be very intense boards.

I had a pair of Head skis around 1983 that were apparently preproduction boards from the first Austian ones imported to the U.S.A. It had an aluminum sheet also on it if I remember correctly. This ski excelled (sking often at freeway speeds, and I don't even know how to ski very well, glad those days are done and didn't have an accident. Probably to never be repeated) in softer/drier snow. The shovel dampening was so nonexistant I was afraid it would snap off on the rutted ice.

I just looked at the F2 website http://www.f2-snow.com . Your team may want to see if anything there works for you.