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Base - The Bottom side of the board that touches the snow. There are two types of bases, sintered and extruded. The sintered base is more durable, holds wax better and thus slides faster. Unfortunately it’s more expensive both to buy and to repair.
Bevel - The angle to which the edges of the board are tuned.
Bevel - The angle to which the edges of the board are tuned.
Camber - The space below the snowboard when it rests on the floor touching only with the tip and tail. Generally, the higher the camber, the more pressure the board puts at the nose and tail. A board with a flat camber will spin easily, which is nice for some freestyle riding. Generally you want the camber to be a bit springy, so it will be stable at higher speeds and on hard snow. Used boards, may have a flat camber, which is a sign they are worn out.
Contact Points - The point where the board touches the floor when there is on the board. You can find it by sliding a paper or a thin wire underneath the board.
Edges - The metal length on the sides of the snowboard.
Effective Edge - The lengths of the edges of the board that touches the snow, excluding the tip and tail. This is the part used when turning. The shorter the effective edge the easier it will be to turn the board with. A longer effective edge will have a more stable ride.
Flex - The flexibility of the snowboard. It determines the way in which the board will react on turns since it absorbs snow change conditions.
Front Foot - The foot on the front side. If it’s your right foot, you’re a ‘goofy’ and if it’s the left you’re regular.
Frontside - The side of the board your chest is facing (which is not the Nose).
Leash - A piece of cable connecting the front foot and the snowboard preventing the board from running away accidentally (after your first fall you’ll lose the board since it just ’slide away to somewhere between the trees…I bet after that you’ll use the leash too).
Length - The length of the board tip to tail.
Nose - The side of the snowboard going downhill.
Nose Width - The width of the nose area on the board.
Rocker - The opposite of camber. Have the snowboard resting on the floor with the center touching and having the tip and tail facing up.
Running Length - The size of the bottom area of the snowboard that touches the snow.
Side Cut Radius - The radius of the circle that makes the board look like and hourglass. The smaller the side cut radius the tighter you will be able to turn.
Side Cut Depth - The actual side cut amount, the widest point minus the narrowest point.
Stance - The position of the feet on the snowboard.
Tail - The side of the snowboard going uphill.
Tail Width - The widest part of the board on the tail area.
Toe edge - The snowboard’s edge on the toes side.
Twin Tip - A board with identical tip and tail so that it can be ridden on both sides as a nose.
Waist Width - The width of the narrowest point on the board. The narrower the board the faster it is. Unfortunately, riders with large shoe size, usually needs a larger board.
Stance - The position of the feet on the snowboard.
Tail - The side of the snowboard going uphill.
Tail Width - The widest part of the board on the tail area.
Toe edge - The snowboard’s edge on the toes side.
Twin Tip - A board with identical tip and tail so that it can be ridden on both sides as a nose.
Waist Width - The width of the narrowest point on the board. The narrower the board the faster it is. Unfortunately, riders with large shoe size, usually needs a larger board.
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